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Artisan I workshop at the San Francisco Baking Institute

Steve Mitchell, one of my co-students at SFBI this winter, just sent me these pictures, wonderful memories of a week spent scaling, mixing, shaping, baking and tasting. Thank you, Steve!


Frank demonstrates the shaping of a baguette


A great way to score a rye loaf

The lab

A busy day
 
Yours truly, engrossed in the task at hand


Lunch break: there’s wine on the table, so it was the last day


Clean-up time – here is Frank, a born teacher


Michel Suas, President of SFBI, the man who made it all possible

100% whole grain multigrain baguettes

If you are already a reader of Bombance, my other blog (the one in French), you may have noticed that our family is quite keen on whole grain, or rather, the grown-ups are. The kids do not care one bit about the nutritional benefits and they are harder to convince.
So I am always on the lookout for breads that everybody will like and that will still be 100% wholesome.
Since we all love baguettes, kids included, I decided to try making whole grain ones to see whether or not they would do the trick and I looked in Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor for an idea.
I like Reinhart’s indomitable energy and endless quest. Being one of the best-known bakers/bread book writers in the US, he could rest on his laurels and just develops new recipes but he doesn’t. He’s always on the lookout for new methods, patrolling the border between baking and bread science. I love it!
As Michel Suas, President and co-founder of the San Francisco Baking Institute) put it in his phone interview with Jeremy from Stir the Pots , bread baking is like a treasure hunt. You spend a lot of time looking but it is all made worth while when you make a find.
Well, the Bombance/Farine family surely enjoyed this particular treasure. The baguettes are delicious. They are no stand-ins for the traditional Parisian baguettes made with a poolish, levain, a sponge or any other fermented dough. They are a different animal altogether, a breed in themselves. Good, crusty with a delicately nutty taste.
We found that they go very well with cheese (we didn’t have any Brie but I bet they would be amazing with a runny cheese) as well as with orange marmalade or honey at breakfast. My son-in-law loved them with his avocado-lime salad.
Reinhart’s secret is that he uses two pre-ferments, a soaker which stays at room temperature for 24 hours and a stiff levain (a biga can also be used and Reinhart provides the instructions for that as well) which spends some time in the fridge.
The time the levain spends in the fridge stimulates enzymatic activity and the development of taste without exhausting the yeast or the sugars (present in the flour). The addition of instant yeast at the end makes for a shorter second rise without compromising the taste (since the taste has already been maximized by the preferments).
The book contains many recipes. I picked the Multigrain Hearth Bread partly because I had some cooked kamut grain which I wanted to use but mostly because I just love the combination of tastes and textures.
I could have made two loaves or bâtards but, as mentioned above, I chose to make baguettes to trick the kids into eating a 100% whole grain bread and it worked! Thank you, Peter Reinhart!

Ingredients (pour 4 baguettes): 

For the soaker: 

  • 25 g whole wheat flour (organic and stone-ground if possible)
  • 170 g of a mix of cooked and raw grains (the large grains such as wheat, kamut or spelt must be cooked, smaller ones like millet, quinoa, amaranth, etc. can go in raw but Reinhart prefers to cook them) (for this interpretation of his recipe, I used: 70 g cooked kamut, 43 g raw sunflower seeds, 37 g uncooked 10-grain cereal and 20 g kamut flakes straight out of the bag)
  • 4 g salt
  • 170 g water

For the final dough:

  • 398 g stiff whole wheat starter (hydration rate: 75%) (this starter had spent 12 hours in the fridge. I took it out 2 hours before I mixed the dough)
  • 401 g soaker (in other words, the whole thing)
  • 565 g whole wheat flour
  • 5 g salt
  • 7 g instant yeast
  • 14 g oil (I used extra-virgin olive oil)
  • additional whole wheat flour as needed

Method:

  1. Mix all the ingredients of the soaker with the water and let stand at room temperature for 24 hours
  2. One day later, divide the soaker and the stiff levain into a dozen small pieces with a metal dough cutter. Sprinkle whole wheat flour on these 24 pieces to avoid their sticking together
  3. Put them in a large bowl with all the other ingredients (except for the additional flour) and mix vigorously with wet hands until incorporated. The dough should be slack and sticky (add flour or water as needed)
  4. Sprinkle flour on the counter. Put the dough on it and roll it in the flour. Knead for 3 or 4 minutes, adding just enough flour so that it doesn’t stick any more
  5. Shape into a rough boule (ball) and let rest 5 minutes. During that time, spray oil into a bowl or dough bucket
  6. Knead again for one minute or until the dough is developed enough to pass the windowpane test (for more info on the windowpane test, see this page of Susan’s blog, Wild Yeast) (I had to knead for quite a few minutes to reach that stage, maybe because I only used 20 g of additional flour. I always find it very difficult to determine how much is too much when an author tells you to add flour without giving you an idea of how much and I often err on the side of not quite enough)
  7. Place the dough (shaped as a boule) in the bowl or bucket, cover and let ferment at room temperature for 45 to 60 minutes (this is Reinhart’s recommendation. Since I had to go out, I set the dough to rise in a cold room – not the refrigerator though – for about 3 hours and since it wasn’t very developed, I gave it a fold after 40 minutes before leaving the house. Ideally I should have given it another fold but I wasn’t around to do it. For more info on folding dough, please refer to Susan’s blog again)
  8. Take the dough out of the bowl or bucket and place it on the counter (lightly sprinkled with flour). Divide it in 4 pieces
  9. Form each of the pieces into a rough cylinder. Let rest 20 minutes under a damp towel
  10. Shape 4 baguettes trying not to deflate the dough
  11. Put the baguettes either on a floured couche or in a floured baguette pan. Place in a large clear plastic bag. Blow into the bag once and close it tightly
  12. Let rise at room temperature for about 45 minutes
  13. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F/260 C twenty minutes before baking time after putting in it a baking stone and an empty metal pan
  14. When the second rise is over, take the baguettes out of the bag, sprinkle them with whole wheat flour and score them (make three parallel cuts length-wise at a 45-degree angle taking care not to cut diagonally)
  15. Pour one cup of cold water into the empty metal pan (taking care to avert your face and to protect your hands as the steam will be very hot) and place the baguettes directly on the baking stone (if using a couche. If using a baguette pan, set the pan on the stone)
  16. Spray water in the oven (taking care not to aim at the lamp). Spray again heavily two minutes later
  17. Lower the oven temperature do 450 F/232 C. Do not open the oven door for the next 20 minutes
  18. After 20 minutes, rotate the baguettes (if using a pan, take the baguettes out of it and set them on the stone). Bake another 15 minutes
  19. Take the baguettes out of the oven and set them to cool on a rack before eating.

We had just started dinner when the baguettes came out of the oven, so we only waited 20 minutes before slicing open the first one. As our house isn’t very warm in this season and the baguettes are rather skinny, it had cooled down enough.

Spring cleaning bread

Spring is officially on even though right now it is snowing lightly where I live. But I am in the mood for warmer breezes and daffodils and in the hope of accelerating the arrival of the new season, I decided to do some cleaning. I started with the cupboard where I keep my stock of dry fruit, which is how I discovered that some of my figs had a decidedly dryer look than when I first bought them.
It so happened that I had just seen a recipe which called for soaking some figs, currants, apricots and prunes in Home Baking, by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, a book I bought long ago on e-bay but never baked from before. As you may have guessed, my spring cleaning stopped right there for the day!
The recipe is called “fruit & nut powerpack” but I changed it to spring cleaning because I need energy and motivation to go on with the process of ridding the house of the last remnants of winter and what better way to get motivated than to remind myself that I didn’t bake all these calories into a loaf just to sit at my computer and eat.
It should also be said that the recipe makes for 2 loaves and that I gave one of them to my daughter whose kids tore it apart and devoured it with even more determination than usual.
My 4-year old granddaughter declared it very yummy with peanut butter when she had her midday meal/afternoon snack on the way back from the aquarium and the 2-year twins kept up an extremely lively bad monster game before they went to sleep last night, which means the energy part works!
Maybe my daughter is sorry I didn’t take up wonderbread baking instead of artisan baking as I heard the twins laugh and chatter in their cribs for quite a while last night (I was over for dinner) while I was helping their 15-year old sister with the formatting of her research paper. Why did Microsoft change the layout of all the commands in Word 2007 is truly beyond me. We had to poke our way through the various menus to find what we needed. Indenting is easier than before but we never found the way to skip page numbering on the first page. Oh, well! The bread did help though because between the two of us, we found all the other answers.
Anyway this is a bread that almost wasn’t because I made a serious mistake while mixing the dough. The recipe calls for active dry yeast and that’s what I had used when mixing the sponge the day before. However, on the day of the baking, I was listening to Will in the World, a truly fascinating account by Stephen Greenblatt of how Shakespeare became Shakespeare. I have borrowed the book on cds from my local library and was totally engrossed in the narrative.
I should know better than multitask while baking and also, true to what I learned at the San Francisco Baking Institute, I should have scaled all the ingredients before starting with the mixing instead of doing it on the go. Anyway what I did was to reach for the instant yeast instead of the active dry one and I weighed it straight into the sponge!
I realized my mistake as soon as it happened but it was too late. I had no idea of how the bread would come out because a) I used the same quantity of instant yeast as I would have of active dry yeast when you are supposed to use way less; b) since it was already late, I had planned for a long fermentation overnight in the fridge which requires less yeast, not more, if you want the micro-organisms to still have something to feast upon in the morning when you put the bread in the oven.
Oh, well! It was too late to do anything about it. Let me tell you though that I never saw a dough grow as fast or as plump as this one on the first rise. It was trying to fly out of the dough bucket like a hot air balloon. Fortunately the lid held fast and it didn’t happen. Since I had barely developed the dough to the point where I could get a gluten window, I did two folds during the first fermentation which lasted about 2 1/2 hours.
Then I did the pre-shaping and the shaping and stuck the whole thing in the fridge. I was half expecting to find two exhausted looking deflated loaves in the morning but that’s not what happened. Which shows that when bakers make mistakes, they should remain hopeful…

Ingredients:

  • 375 to 500 g all-purpose unbleached flour
  • 240 g whole wheat flour
  • 60 g buckwheat flour
  • 474 g lukewarm water
  • 237 g very hot water
    5 g active-dry yeast (as explained above, by mistake I used 1 g of active-dry and 4 g of instant yeast)
  • 15 g of salt (the authors actually call for 12 grams but I like to use about 2% of the total flour weight)
  • 75 g chopped figs
  • 72 g chopped currants
  • 65 g coarsely chopped dried apricots
  • 66 g coarsely chopped pitted prunes
  • 67 g hazelnuts
  • 20 g liquid honey (about half of what the authors use, which is 42 g)

Method:

  1. Eight to 24 hours before you wish to bake, place the lukewarm water in a bowl and stir in 1 g (1/4 of a teaspoon) of active dry yeast then add the whole wheat flour, always stirring in the same direction until a smooth batter forms. Set aside, covered with plastic wrap to ferment overnight or as long as 24 hours (the authors recommend placing the bowl in the fridge if you have to leave the sponge to ferment for longer than 24 hours and not to go beyond 36 hours)
  2. Meanwhile place the figs, currants, apricots and prunes in a bowl and pour over the hot water. Stir well, cover and soak overnight (or at least 5 hours at room temperature)
  3. Before making the dough, toast the hazelnuts. To do that, I put them in a 375 F/191 C oven (a toaster oven would be better if you have one) in a foil pan for about 10 minutes (or until fragrant). Then I transfer them to a kitchen towel which I fold over and rub between my hand to get the skins off (it is okay if some stays on).
  4. Chop by hand or in a food processor. Set aside
  5. Drain the fruit in a sieve over a bowl, using a wooden spoon to press on the fruit to push out all the liquid. Reserve the soaking liquid. Place the fruit in a large bowl and stir in the hazelnuts
  6. Add the reserved soaking liquid to the sponge. Sprinkle on the remaining 4 grams of yeast and stir in (that’s what I made the non-fatal mistake referred to above)
  7. Add 62 g of the all-purpose flour and stir in
  8. Pour in the honey and sprinke on the salt. Stir again
  9. Add the buckwheat flour and stir
  10. Then add 185 to 250 g of the all-purpose flour, 60 g at a time, turning and stirring to mix
  11. Turn the dough out on a work surface floured with another 62 to 125 g of the all-purpose flour (don’t forget to do that as the dough is extremely sticky at this point)
  12. Knead well, incorporating more of the flour as needed. When I stopped kneading, I had a faint gluten window
  13. Let rest for 20 minutes on the counter, covered with plastic
  14. Transfer the dough to a clean bowl. Mix 62 g of the all-purpose flour into the drained fruit and nuts, then add the whole mixture to the dough. Knead in the bowl or on the work surface for 5 minutes or more to incorporate the fruit mixture. If the dough is very sticky, add a little more flour (I had to add 20 g altogether)
  15. Place the dough in a clean bowl (I put it in my dough bucket) and let rise for 3 hours or almost doubled in volume (I actually let it rise for less as indicated above and did 2 folds during the first fermentation. )
  16. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and cut it half
  17. Pre-shape each loaf into a boule and let stand, loosely covered for about 20 minutes
  18. Meanwhile prepare a baking sheet which you will cover with parchment paper. Sprinkle the paper with semolina
  19. Shape the dough into boules, tucking the edges all around to make a smooth mound
  20. Place seam down on the baking sheet, put the baking sheet into a large clear plastic bag, blow in the bag once and close it tightly
  21. At this point, I stuck the loaves in the fridge to slow-rise overnight. If time is not an issue, you can also let them rise on the counter for 1 1/2 hour to 2 hours (or until pressing your finger into the dough leaves an indent which doesn’t disappear right away)
  22. I took the loaves out of the oven and left them at room temperature for about 1 1/2 hour, at which point they appeared ready
  23. Turn on the oven on 400 F/204 C one hour into the second rise (having placed a baking stone in it with an empty metal pan on the shelf located directly under it)
  24. With scissors, cut the paper between the loaves so that each had its own little paper and they can be put further apart in the oven than if they still shared a piece of paper
  25. Sprinkle flour on the loaves and score them, then pour 1 cup of cold water in the hot metal pan (taking care to avert your face and to protect your hands) and put in the loaves in the oven one at a time
  26. Spray more water into the oven (taking care to aim away from the lamp) and close the oven door
  27. Lower the oven temperature to 375 F/191 C and open the oven after two minutes to spray water generously once more
  28. Then bake for about 50 minutes (check the color of the crust after 40 minutes and if necessary, tent the loaves with foil to continue the baking)
  29. The loaves should sound hollow when tapped at the bottom and their internal temperature (taken with an instant thermometer) should be above 204 F/96 C
  30. Let cool completely on a rack before slicing.

This bread will be submitted to Susan, from Wild Yeast, for Yeastspotting.

Kneadlessly Simple San Francisco Style Sourdough Bread

The recipe for this bread comes from Nancy Baggett’s Kneadlessly Simple, a book I rewieved here.

Ingredients:
496 g all-purpose unbleached flour (+ more as needed)
9 g salt (the bread wasn’t quite salty enough to my taste. Next time I’ll use 2% of the total amount of flour indicated in the recipe, including the flour in the starter, i.e. 13 g)
1/4 tsp instant yeast (I used SAF)
12 g corn oil, canola oil or other flavorless vegetable oil + more for coating dough and pan
368 g wild yeast sourdough starter (hydration 100%)
350 g ice water (water chilled to around 50 F/10 C by adding ice cubes)

Method:

  1. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, salt and yeast
  2. In another bowl or measuring cup, whisk the oil and starter into the water
  3. Vigorously stir the mixture into the bowl with the flour, scraping down the sides until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. If too dry, stir in just enough ice water to be able to incorporate the flour but don’t overdo it as the dough should be very stiff (conversely, if necessary, add more flour)
  4. Brush or spray the dough with oil and cover the bowl with plastic wrap
  5. If desired, for best flavor or convenience, the dough can be refrigerated for 3 to 10 hours
  6. Then let rise at room temperature for 18 to 24 hours. If convenient, vigorously stir the dough once partway through the rise (I forgot to do that part)
  7. When ready for the second rise, vigorously stir the dough, adding more flour as needed to make it very stiff and hard to stir (as I couldn’t bring myself to do that, I more or less stopped following the author’s instructions at this point and proceeded my usual way. I still did steps 8 and 9 however)
  8. Then using a well-oiled rubber spatula, fold the dough in towards the center, working your way all around the bowl (which will help organize the gluten)
  9. Let the dough rest for 10 minutes
  10. Invert the dough on a lightly floured counter, sprinkle the dough with flour and pre-shape it into a boule (ball)
  11. Let it rest for 20 minutes under a damp cloth
  12. Shape it into a tighter boule and place this boule into a floured cloth-covered basket (probably because I hadn’t added flour as recommanded by the author, the dough wasn’t stiff enough to rise by itself on a baking sheet)
  13. Place the basket into a large clear plastic bag, blow in the bag and close it tightly. Let the dough rise at room temperature for 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours or 4 to 24 hours in the fridge (I chose to let it rise overnight in the fridge)
  14. On the day of the baking, take the loaf out of the fridge and invert it onto a semolina-covered parchment paper and then to a Dutch oven lined with parchment paper (I use a 5-quart Lodge cast-iron oven but Pyrex or any large enough other covered ovenproof dish would work too). Do not cut the paper to the diameter of the Dutch oven as you will need the extra paper to carry the loaf into and out of the Dutch oven as on a sling
  15. Sprinkle some flour on the loaf, then score it in a tick-tack-toe pattern
  16. Close the Dutch oven and place it into the cold oven (once again, this is not the author’s method, but mine) and turn the oven on to 470 F/243 C. Bake for 45 minutes
  17. Take the Dutch oven out of the oven, get the bread out of it (lifting it on both sides using the paper as a sling) and set it back in the oven, without the paper, directly on the baking stone (if using)
  18. Lower the oven temperature to 440 F/227 C and bake for another 15 minutes (tenting the top of the loaf with foil to avoid overbrowning if necessary)
  19. Take the loaf out of the oven and check its internal temperature with an instant thermometer. If it has reached 204 F/ 96 C, it is ready. If not, put it back in the oven for another few minutes (taking care to protect the top with foil)
  20. When the bread is done, take it out of the oven and set it to cool on a rack before slicing it.

This bread didnt taste like the one I had several times in San Francisco but I like it better that way as I am not a huge fan of the famous San Francisco sourdough bread, except when eaten with clam chowder.
But I like the fact that without being exceptionally good, this bread is really tasty (especially after a few hours or the next day as it truly improves with age), that the work involved is minimal and that, best of all, all I had to wash afterward was a couple of bowls and a wooden spoon…

Nantucket Crown

This bread doesn’t have much in common with the quaint island that lies off the coast of Cape Cod. Rather it takes its name from the blend of dried fruit and nuts I used, which is sold at Costco under the name “Nantucket Blend”.
You will notice that, being calorie-conscious, I used very little of this blend, just enough to give the bread its fruity and nutty flavor.
Since this loaf contains 70% whole-grain flours, I added a bit of yeast to the starter. I could probably have done without but then I would have had to make the fermentation a while longer.

Ingredients:

  • 250 g white whole wheat flour
  • 150 g all-purpose unbleached flour (I use Whole Foods 365 Organic)
  • 50 g sorghum flour (spelt or kamut flour can be substituted) 
  • 50 g dark rye flour
  • 50 g coarse yellow cornmeal 
  • 300 g water 
  • 170 g liquid starter 100% hydration
  • 55 g Nantucket blend (or other)
  • 26 g raw wheat germ
  • 11 g salt
  • 12 g almond oil (canola or sunflower oil can be substituted)
  • 4 g instant yeast (I use SAF)

Method:

  1. Put all the ingredients (except the fruit & nut) in the bread machine in the order specified by the manufacturer (in mine, liquid ingredients must go first)
  2. Select and start the dough program
  3. Check the consistency of the dough as it is being kneaded (for best results, reserve a tenth of the water at the beginning and add it or not according to the needs of the dough)
  4. When the machine beeps, add the fruit and nut mixture
  5. Let the dough program run its course till the end of the rising period
  6. Take the dough out of the machine and divide it into 8 equal pieces
  7. Pre-shape each of these pieces into a rough boule (ball) and let rest 20 minutes under a damp towell
  8. Shape each piece into a boule and put the 8 boules in a circle on a baking sheet covered with semolina-sprinkled parchment paper
  9. Put the baking sheet in a big clear plastic bag, blow into the bag once and close it tightly
  10. Let rise at room temperature for about an hour and a half
  11. Twenty minutes before baking time, turn on the oven (450 F/246 C)
  12. Put in a baking stone with an empty metal pan on the rack below it
  13. Before baking, score or stencil the loaves (or do both as on the photo) and pour a cup of cold water in the hot metal dish (taking care to avoid getting the steam in your face or on your hands)
  14. Open the oven again and slide the crown (still on the parchment paper) directly onto the baking stone
  15. Spray the oven heavily with water (taking care not to aim at the lamp to avoid cracking) and close the oven
  16. Spray again two minutes later, then lower the oven temperature to 450 F/232 C and do not open the oven for the next 30 to 35 minutes
  17. Take the loaf out of the oven and let it cool completely on a wire rack before slicing.

This loaf would look good with a buffet-style dinner, or even at Easter on the brunch table. Each of the “little” boules is big enough to be thinly sliced and served with a runny goat cheese or with a Brie or camembert. It is also very good at breakfast with butter and honey or jam.