I knew of Steve Sullivan before last weekend’s L’Atelier du Pain Serie at the San Francisco Baking Institute (SFBI). One of my kids used to live in Berkeley and, whenever I visited, I would go get bread at Acme, Steve’s bakery on San Pablo. In later years I always stopped by his smaller bakery in the Ferry Building in San Francisco, drawn by the memory of an improbable beetroot-and-goat-cheese sandwich on baguette I bought there for lunch one day, the type of sandwich that leads you to believe that perfection is indeed of this world.
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L’Atelier du Pain (Bread Workshop) at the San Francisco Baking Institute
This past weekend, the San Francisco Baking Institute (SFBI) marked its twentieth anniversary by launching its first ever L’Atelier du pain (bread workshop) serie. The event featured renowned bakers Steve Sullivan of The Acme Bread Company, Dave Miller of Miller’s Bakehouse and Chad Robertson of Tartine Bakery as well as two talented in-house bakers and instructors, Miyuki Togi and Mac McConnell. While it was streamed live across the world to anyone who had bought a ticket, a lucky few (thirty in all) had been randomly selected to attend it in person.
Going with the Grain: Developing Single Variety Whole Grain Breads

At events such as the Grain Gathering, you constantly have to make choices. For every class, workshop, panel, or roundtable you decide to attend, there is one you must actively decide not to. And sometimes the choice is next to impossible because you really, really want to go to both.
On the last morning of this year’s GG, my friend Meeghen Eaton (a super talented baker and bread blogger also known as breadsong) and I were going back and forth trying to make up our minds between Sprouted Wheat Flour: Technique & Formulation and Going with the Grain: Developing Single Variety Whole Grain Breads when the solution suddenly appeared to us in all its glorious simplicity: I would go to one class and Meeghen to the other and we’d pool our notes and photos. And because Meeghen is the kindest of souls and the most generous person I have ever met, she even agreed to write-up her notes in a guest post on Farine.
This is her guest post. The first ever on Farine. And what a post! For sure the next best thing to being there. Thank you so much, Meeghen!
The class was taught by Josey Baker, Jonathan Bethony and Ryan Lee (who for the past four years and until recently has been baking alongside Josey at The Mill in San Francisco).
BreadCrumbs
For ease of reference I am listing on this page tiny pieces of information that would get lost on the blog otherwise. I am looking for a more technology-savvy way to present them. If you know of any WordPress plugin that might work, please let me know and I’ll take a look. Thanks!
Flour
Levain (natural starter)
Commercial yeast
(contents to be added)
Mixing
Fermentation
- Your guide to preferments (by Didier Rosada)
- Of Bread and Herons: a rye bread story
- Mass effect
- Musings
- Pondering preferments
- More on preferments
- How to obtain the desired dough temperature (DDT)
Bread Science
Bakers’ Talk
Bread Terminology
Bread Fun
Josey Baker and Jonathan Bethany on whole-grain artisan bread for the home baker
Unlike many of the classes and demos at the Grain Gathering, the whole-grain for the home baker workshop took place in the lobby kitchen of WSU Extension, a place well-suited for a demo but hardly the perfect stage for a dance. Yet a choreographed performance is what Josey and Jonathan opened with, arguing that were no better introduction to the five golden principles of whole-grain baking than the W.W.W. S. B. pas de deux.
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