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How to make bread by Emmanuel Hadjiandreou: errata

Fig-Anise Bread from How to make Bread

In a previous post I mentioned How to make bread by Emmanuel Hadjiandreou, a book which both beginners and more advanced bakers may find useful, inspiring and fun. I have already made half-a-dozen breads from the book and they came out really well, except for the last one I tried, Levain de campagne Bread (see Troubleshooting dough hydration: A trick “à la Gérard”). That last dough was so dry that there was no way it could be a simple matter of flour or weather differences.
So I wrote to the author who, to his credit, immediately emailed me back and subsequently called to ask which edition of the book I had. He then listed a few errors or omissions in the American edition (which is the one I have). I don’t know if the same errors are to be found in the British edition but those of you who have it may want to take a look.
Since quite a readers have written or commented that they ordered the book, in case you have the exact same edition as I do (and if you bought it from amazon.com, chances are you do), I thought it’d be useful to share the list of corrections:

Last edited March 13, 2014

  • page 23: Step 24 reads, swivel the dough  and 180˚ then repeat Step 22. It should read, Swivel the dough 180 and then repeat Step 22 and 23.
  • Page 44: Pecan Raisin Bread: spelling mistake golen should read golden.
  • page 47: Beer Bread: In the list of ingredients, 10g/1 teaspoon should read 10g/ 2 teaspoons
  • page 61: Bagels: In step 1, add the softened butter to the dry  mixture
  • page 65: Armenian Flatbread:  Step 9 reads. Cover the bowl again and let rise for 30 minutes. It should read: Cover the bowl again and let rest not rise for 30 minutes, as there is no rising agent in the dough
  • page 81: Gluten-free Bread with two variations: read “potato starch” instead of “potato flour”
  • page 82: Gluten-free Cornbread: read “potato starch” instead of “potato flour”
  • page 94: Levain de campagne Bread: replace “150 g warm water” by “250 g to 300 g warm water” (the author cannot be more specific as a lot depends on the capacity of your wholegrain flours to absorb water. Generally speaking American flours are stronger -have a higher protein content- than their British equivalent and therefore require more water;
  • page 109: Beetroot Sourdough: In step 3, add the oil to the wet mixture
  • page 115: Potato Sourdough Bread: In the list of ingredients, proofing/ dough rising basket (500g/ 1-lb. capacity) should be 1000g/ 2-lb. capacity.  Step 17: Should read Bake for about 40-50 minutes, or until golden brown. (M: shows 2 small loaves one made with raw, grated potato & another made with roasted potato;)
  • page 129: Semolina Bread: In the list of ingredients, add 15 g of olive oil for folding
  • page 138: Croissants: Step 23 should read, Remove the dough from the refrigerator and repeat Steps 17-22 (not Remove the dough from the refrigerator and repeat Steps 17-21).
  • If you notice anything else that doesn’t seem to make sense or if you have trouble with one of the recipes, Emmanuel Hadjiandreou says he can always be reached for questions through the School of Artisan Food (info@schoolofartisanfood.org). If you do contact him, please let me know what you learn so that I can update the list as necessary.

If you are on facebook, you might also wish to comment on the book’s page and start a discussion.
In case you are wondering, I should specify that I have no financial or other interest in the book except that I like it and that I paid for my copy out of my own pocket. 

Happy baking!

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April 28, 2012 · Filed Under: Books, Resources · 28 Comments

Troubleshooting dough hydration: A trick “à la Gérard”

Update: If you are planning to make the Levain de campagne Bread from How to make bread by Emmanuel Hadjiandreou (the bread I am talking about below), please note that there is indeed a typo in the recipe and that the amount of water should be more or less 300 g and not 150 g. This was confirmed to me today by the author himself.

Spring break brought us a passel of kids and grandkids and made for an extremely lively ten days in our household. Anyone who has had the good fortune of living in close quarters with five-and-a half-year old twins and their even younger first cousins will probably agree that the experience isn’t exactly conducive to meditation, reading and gourmet cooking.
By popular (and youthful) request, macaroni and cheese have been seen in my kitchen this week with unprecedented frequency while greens were the object of much suspicion and arduous negotiation. Asparagus and broccoli prevailed. Spinach was voted down. Frozen peas passed muster. Usually beloved, avocado was categorically rejected. Fruit was regarded with a marked lack of enthusiasm in its original form except for bananas, apples and mangos (save for one kid who expressed total revulsion at the sight of sliced mango in his fruit salad) but was widely appreciated in disguise (notably in the shape of the blackberry frozen yogurt I made from the berries we picked last summer).
A large part of the family went back home today. A second installment (grown-ups only) is expected tomorrow. In-between I found myself in the mood for a baking Sunday.
Since I am still exploring Hadjiandreou’s book, I decided to make the miche Emmanuel Hadjiandreou calls his “Levain de campagne” Bread (shown on the cover) for which he won a Great Taste Award.
The recipe calls for 150 g of mature white starter (at 100% hydration) and 150 g of water (as indicated above, the water amount is incorrect as printed in the book. It should be 300 g)  as well as for 250 g of all-purpose flour (he actually recommends strong/bread flour but then he bakes in the UK where flours are different from ours), 150 g of whole wheat flour and 50 g of dark rye flour. So far so good. 
Cruising along  after weighing everything, I was feeling quite happy (the fragrance of the levain will do that to you!)  when I hit a snag. Hadjiandreou says to “mix until [the dough] comes together. The mixture will be a bit soft, but don’t despair and don’t be tempted to add more flour”. I certainly wasn’t! Far from being alarmingly soft, my dough was as stiff as could be. I wet my hands, I added a few spoonfuls of water, then a few more. It still didn’t look good. I set the dough to rest for ten minutes prior to the first stretch and fold, hoping that it would have relaxed, but no such luck. I tried adding more water but it made matters worse: the dough showed signs of breaking apart.
That’s when I remembered a trick Gérard Rubaud showed me last fall. He said it is never too late to add water to a dough and he proved his point by hydrating a dough that had just finished fermenting and successfully making a whole batch of baguettes with it. 

This above video was done for demonstration purposes only: the dough was already fine as it was. But Gérard does use this trick to troubleshoot production situations:  he says that each time he gets a new delivery of all-purpose flour, he has to recalculate the percentage of water and sometimes he’s off in his calculations for the first batch and doesn’t know it until after the autolyse is over. If he has used too much water, it is simple enough to add more flour but if he hasn’t used enough, it is much trickier. In his experience, it is way easier to add water (up to 2% of the flour weight) at the end of the first fermentation than at the end of the autolyse.
The dough that was slowly taking shape in my bowl had none of the silkiness and pillowiness (is there such a word?) of Gérard’s. It was still rather stiff and forbidding and didn’t look like it would take kindly to a bath “à la Gérard”. Still it could clearly use some water, so I gave it a shower instead (using a spray bottle) and that’s clearly what it was waiting for.
After each stretch and fold episode (and there were a total of six at ten minute-intervals), I sprayed it thoroughly with warm water and covered it again with an inverted bowl. It absorbed the water while resting and became progressively more flexible. It was still a very different dough from Gérard’s but then Gérard’s contained mostly white flour while this one contained close to 80% whole grains.
I am sure the crumb won’t sport big holes (Hadjiandreou’s doesn’t) but will it be dense or not? In other words, should I have sprayed more? Or less? That’s what I am hoping to learn from the experience… Don’t you love the everlasting challenges of breadbaking?
I wrote to Emmanuel Hadjiandreou to make sure the recipe is correct. The dough seemed way too dry, even accounting for the differences in flour, climate, etc., for the prescribed amounts of flour and water to yield the soft dough pictured (and described) in the book. I will let you know what I hear back, if anything.

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April 23, 2012 · Filed Under: Artisans, Gérard Rubaud, Resources, Tips · 20 Comments

Chocolate and Currant Levain

The recipe comes from an excellent book on bread-baking I recently discovered, How to Make Bread by South-African born and UK-based baker Emmanuel Hadjiandreou. Here are a few of the things I love about this book:

  • It stresses that “accuracy is crucial in bread baking” and encourages the baker to use a precision electronic scale
  • It lists all quantities in metric weights first, followed by American cups and/or ounces, tablespoons, etc. 
  • All recipes are illustrated with clear explanations and gorgeous pictures (some of the pages can be seen online on this blog)
  • All recipes are mixed by hand (stretch-and-fold method) but they are wrist-friendly because the quantities are always on the small side (the downside is that the yield is smaller than what I am used to and I am tempted to just double the amount of ingredients but then the wrist-friendly aspect becomes less obvious. A professional baker would also tell you that because the amounts are small, there is no mass-effect which makes it harder to coax all possible flavors out of the grain. Life is all about compromise, isn’t it?)
  • The book explains the basics of bread making, then offers recipes for yeasted breads, sourdoughs, flatbreads, soda breads and pastries (among which pains au chocolat for which the reader is shown how to make his or her own chocolate batons). There is even a gluten-free bread recipe with two variations (I love the fact that it doesn’t use any xantham gum or other barbarious sounding binder). Hadjiandreou writes that he learned his trade as a baker in a German-style bakery and he includes a recipe for dark rye bread which he says is one of his all-time favorites. There are also wheat-free breads, including a prune and pepper rye bread that looks marvelous and is definitely on my to-bake list! He also includes an award-winning recipe for a marzipan stollen
  • I find How to Make Bread a great resource for both new and experienced bakers and if I ever teach bread-baking, I would be tempted to use it as a workbook since it covers a lot of ground in a friendly manner and makes home baking look deliciously rewarding (which it is, I can testify to that!). 
Although I have already baked quite a few recipes from the book (including a pretty pink-dotted beetroot sourdough for the Easter dinner bread basket), I am showcasing the chocolate bread since I recently made and froze a new batch in anticipation of our grandkids’ arrival on spring break at the end of the week. It is a kid-friendly bread that even adults not blessed (or cursed, depending on the point of view) with a sweet tooth can enjoy, all levain-based and chokeful of good-for-you currants. I used bittersweet chocolate chips as that’s all I had on-hand (Hadjiandreou suggests using milk or semisweet which we would probably have found too sweet anyway). This blog entry comes with a warning though: once you have made this bread, you’ll likely find yourself compulsorily making it again and again. 
Ingredients: (for two small-loaves)
  • 200 g Zante currants
  • 80 g semisweet chocolate chips
  • 330 g unbleached all-purpose flour (Hadjiandreou says to use “strong or bread flour” which contains a high amount of protein (up to 17%) to trap the carbon dioxide during fermentation and give the bread a good texture. That would be considered too high here in the US but then our flours are quite different. To be on the safe side, if you do live in the UK, your best bet is to follow Hadjiandreou’s advice)
  • 8 g salt
  • 20 g cocoa powder
  • 170 g white levain (sourdough starter) at 100% hydration*
  • 250 g warm water
* The starter I used is one that my friend Teresa from Northwest Sourdough kindly sent me when I came back from my trip to France (saving me the tedious task of reactivating my dehydrated levain). Appropriately called Northwest Starter because it was originally cultured near Willapa Bay, Washington, it is wonderfully fragrant and so active that I was able to bake with it after just one feeding. No wonder it was once featured in a TV show (in 2006 during the “What’s Cooking?” segment on KNOE TV Channel 8/CBS affiliate). Why, if I had been the one to capture these wild workhorses yeasts, I would probably have tried to get them on Animal Planet! Well done, Teresa, and thank you!
Method (slightly adapted):
  1. Mix the currants and chocolate and set aside
  2. In one small mixing bowl, mix the flour, salt and cocoa powder together. This is the dry mixture
  3. In a larger mixing bowl, mix the sourdough starter and water together until well combined. This is the wet mixture
  4. Add the dry and chocolate-currant mixtures to the wet mixture and mix until incorporated
  5. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes
  6. After 10 minutes, stretch and fold the dough inside the bowl by going twice around the bowl with four stretches and foldings at each 90° turn (8 stretches/foldings in all)
  7. Let rest 10 minutes again. Repeat twice
  8. Complete a fourth stretch and fold cycle and let the dough rest one hour (I actually let it rest closer to three hours before it was fermented enough, probably because my house was colder than the lab where the recipe has been tested)
  9. When the dough has doubled in volume, punch it down to release the air (I didn’t really punch it as I am always weary of completely deflating it), lightly flour a clean work surface and transfer the boule of dough to it
  10. Divide the dough into two equal portions and roll each one into a ball
  11. Dust two small proofing baskets with flour (Hadjiandreou uses a long oblong one into which he fits the two balls snugly together but I don’t own one like that) and set the boules in them, seam-side up
  12. Let the dough rise until doubled in size (it can take between 3 and 6 hours)
  13. About 20 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 475°F/240°C with a baking stone on the middle shelf and an empty roasting pan at the bottom. Fill a cup with water and set it aside
  14. When the boules have doubled in volume, tip them out seam-side down on a parchment-lined semolina-dusted rimless half-sheet pan and slide them onto the baking stone. Pour the reserved water into the empty roasting pan and lower the oven temperature to 425°F/220°C
  15. Bake about 30 minutes. To check if the bread is ready, tip it out upside down and tap the bottom. It should sound hollow
  16. Let cool on a wire rack
  17. Enjoy!
The chocolate and currant sourdough bread is going to Susan for Yeastspotting.

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April 10, 2012 · Filed Under: Breads, Breads made with starter, Recipes · 23 Comments

Happy Egg Day everyone!

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April 8, 2012 · Filed Under: Uncategorized · 4 Comments

Meet the cheesemaker: Lin Bourdais

Remember I told you in my last post how we had the baguette from Normandy with cheese the same night? Well, it wasn’t just any cheese: it was this cheese, a tomme from the same terroir as the baguette, i.e. Pays d’Auge in Normandy.

The notion of terroir is of supreme importance to the artisans we met that day. Erik the baker moved to the country to be closer to the wheat. He started using a small mill close to his bakery but the miller moved away. So for now he gets his flour from le Moulin de Persard in Western Normandy. When Manu realizes his project of growing and milling wheat for the bakery however, the full circle they both have been dreaming of all along will become reality.


(photo courtesy of our friends at Tree-Top Baking, along for the visit)

Lin Bourdais, 47, has been making organic cheese for 6 years at Bois Canon, the farm he bought from his parents. He has thirty cows who produce milk all-year round on 52 ha (128 acres) of land. He sells his cheese on two open-air markets (Mézidon and Caen) as well as to a few natural food stores and to CSA’s.  This year he had to deny cheese deliveries to other stores: the farm doesn’t yield enough milk to make more cheese (it takes 450 liters of milk to make 45 kg of cheese) and he doesn’t want to buy milk elsewhere, even from a neighbor, because he wouldn’t know first-hand what the cows had eaten and wouldn’t be able to control the flavors. He works with the tastes of his terroir and wants it no other way.
He has help: Sophie Martinet, who became his business partner a year-and-a-half ago; Xavier, who is interning at the fromagerie and David, an expert cheesemaker who came to replace him when he had to leave for a while (sorry, I don’t have last names for Xavier or David). Three people need to work full-time to maintain production levels.
Now Lin’s cheese isn’t typical of what Normandy usually produces, i.e. soft cheeses (such as Camembert, Pont-L’Évêque or Livarot). Tommes are normally to be found in mountainous areas, such as the Alps or the Massif Central, and they are often low in fat. Lin’s isn’t. He uses full fat raw milk and the resulting cheese is wonderfully tender. The one he cut open for us had been aging since the previous June (since we visited in March, it was about nine months old). It gets better as it ages but Lin says the demand is such that it is difficult to keep enough tommes around to age them.
He currently sells cheeses made in January 2012, November 2011 and June 2011. He says that once he kept a cheese for two and a half years to sell at Christmas time. He put it for sale at twice the regular price -which is €12/kg or a little bit under $8 per pound- and it flew off the table.
Lin’s tomme is an uncooked pressed cheese (like Cheddar). I know this is normally a bread blog but just in case you are interested in cheese (I know I am: wine and cheese have got to be my favorite food pairings), take a quick look at how it’s made (the first photo is kind of foggy because it was very warm in the room and we were coming from outside, so glasses and camera lenses misted up right away!).

(photo courtesy of Tree-Top Baking)
The first few weeks, the cheese is washed two to three times a week and at the very beginning, it gets flipped over at each washing. Afterwards, the washing occurs only about once a week: it starts from the top shelves (where the older cheeses reside) so that the bacteria naturally occurring on the rind can trickle down and bring more flavor to the younger tommes. The shelves have to be made out of white wood (ash tree, Norway spruce, fir tree). Any other wood would impart an unwelcome taste to the cheese.


We were sent to Lin’s farm by Seth, from Boulangerie Les Co’Pains, but I am not sure Lin is eager to have unannounced visitors. If you are in the area and want to try his cheese (which I strongly recommend because it is very tasty), your best bet is to go the markets at Caen or Mézidon and look or ask for Fromagerie GAEC du Bois Canon. You won’t regret it…

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March 31, 2012 · Filed Under: Artisans, Travel · 6 Comments

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My name is MC: formerly a translator,  now a serious home baker and a blogger. If you like real bread and love to meet other bakers, you are in the right place. Come on in...

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