Farine

Rising to the Challenge: Bread Sculpture 2009

For Slow Food’s big weekend in San Francisco last year, the bakers at the San Francisco Baking Institute created the gigantic bread snail you can see here. This year they outdid themselves by recreating out of bread for the SF Chefs event not only the Golden Gate Bridge but the vineyards of Napa and Sonoma counties, the waters of the Pacific Ocean and the crabs for which San Francisco’s seafood restaurants are justly famous!

According to the SFBI team that designed and created the sculpture this year…

from left to right, Justine Maiorino, Juliette Leichuk, Michel Suas, Valerie Rogers,
Sydnee Kennedy, Safa Hamzé, Rocio Villanueva, Greg Mindel,
Laura Cronin, Frank Sally, Miyuki Togi

…1,053 pounds of live fermented bread dough went into its making. Three mega miches were baked that were so heavy (660 pounds total)…

…that a forklift was required to load and unload them. Two hundred bagels (38 pounds of dough) and 158 breadsticks (60 pounds) were used to make the bridge suspension cables.

Amber waves of baguettes recreated the swell of the Pacific…

…while 46 golden crabs (66 pounds) (sorry! no picture of them!), 8 sheathes of wheat (106 pounds) and a grape vine (18 pounds) hung with plump clusters of grapes suggested the vibrant food and wine culture of the Bay Area.

The flowers, leaves and grapes as well as the bridge panels and the fence were made of decorative dough (162 pounds) colored with paprika, beet powder, spinach powder and turmeric.

In addition, thirty miches (105 pounds) were baked to decorate the sculpture and illustrate the rich bread tradition of the San Francisco area.

“The hardest part was calculating the structure of the largest possible loaf that could hold its own weight when standing on its edge, without it getting stuck in the oven during the bake”, says the team.

The sculpture – which took 1 1/2 week to bake and build, planning and test bakes not included – was created at SFBI, then disassembled, loaded onto a flat bed truck…

…driven to Union Square, and reassembled on site.

SFBI President, Michel Suas, with San Francisco Mayor Gavin Newsom

Carrot bread

I don’t know what’s wrong with me but, just like Eve in the Garden of Eden, I can’t help it. Ever since my first fermented apple, I have had my head wrapped around the idea of fermenting (that is when I wasn’t dreaming up our next ciabatta) and so, just like Eve, I finally I gave in.
I bought a bag of California seedless raisins and went with it. I chopped them some, then put them in water. Stirred daily, they macerated for two weeks, bubbling away. I tasted the soaking water periodically but forgot to do it after a while and then I tasted again and, lo and behold, all sugar was gone all of a sudden and I was sipping pure alcohol !
I wasn’t sure what would happen next to the mixture if fermentation went on, so I decided to put a stop to it and use the stuff to make bread. To compensate for this reckless use of an inebriating substance, I also decided to go virtuous and incorporate freshly grated carrots as an ingredient.
I added some non fermented raisins to give the yeast some sugar to snack on blindly in case it became completely wasted and couldn’t fight its way out of the gluten chains. I put in a bit of sugar for the same reason.
The sweetener could be skipped but, truly, these buns do not really taste sweet, so unless it is for dietary reasons, it should probably stay in. And I wouldn’t use a liquid sweetener such as honey or agave syrup because this is one wet dough already!
Now I have to tell you, folks! These buns were a hit. They are too boozy for the mouths of babes though and if you eat more than one and hit the road, you may unwittingly be DUI and not pass the breathalyzer test. So watch out and pace yourself. I know it’s hard, but they keep and reheat very well, and they can be frozen. It’s not as if you had to go through the whole batch in one fell swoop and, anyway, I was just kidding (I think)…

Ingredients (for 12 buns and a big loaf or for 24 buns or 2 big loaves):
For the fermented raisins (to be made 2 weeks ahead)
150 g seedless raisins, chopped
300 g water
For the levain
340 g mature 100% white starter
340 g water
340 g unbleached all-purpose flour
For the final dough
802 g unbleached all-purpose flour
203 g white whole wheat flour
577 g water
540 g levain
440 g carrots, raw, shredded
230 g raisin water
175 g raisins, whole (not fermented)
90 g drained fermented raisins
50 g light brown sugar (optional)
40 g milk
27 g extra-virgin olive oil
24 g salt
6 g instant yeast
1 g diastatic malt powder

Method:

The afternoon before mixing the dough, mix together all the ingredients for the levain and let the mixture rest at room temperature
The morning after, mix the flour, the yeast, the levain and 500 g of the water on low speed in the bowl of the mixer until just incorporated
Let rest, covered, for 20 to 30 minutes (autolyse)
Add the salt and mix on low speed until the salt is incorporated and, when pulling gently on a piece of dough with wet hands, you can see that the gluten structure has barely started to develop (the mixing time should be kept rather short, especially if using a KitchenAid type mixer. I use a spiral mixer which is very gentle and only has one speed and, after the autolyse, I only need to mix the dough for 3 to 4 minutes)
Add the carrots and the raisins
Mix the remaining liquid with the olive oil and the milk and slowly, very slowly, dribble it over the dough at it spins (a process known as “double hydration”)
When all the liquid is incorporated, stop the machine and transfer the dough (it will be almost runny) to an oiled container (oblong shape is best as it makes it possible to fold the dough straight in the container. As indicated in a previous post, I use an Ikea sturdy food container which a snap-on lid)

Let it ferment for 2 to 3 hours, with folds every 30 minutes ( the dough was so weak that I gave it 7 folds all together, including one last fold after it had spent 30 minutes in the fridge. It was either that or get ready to drink the bread with a straw later, it was so wet)

The dough looked like batter

Then refrigerate for two to three hours
Turn the dough out onto a heavily floured work surface and dust it with flour before slicing it in two (lengthwise). Then according to what you want, divide each piece in 12 or not (for want of a sufficient number of half sheet pans to make 24 rolls, I went for 12 rolls and 1 loaf)
Gently transfer the pieces to parchment paper dusted with semolina flour and flour
Dust them with flour again and dimple them with your fingers
Then let rise another hour at room temperature in a large clear plastic bag filled with air
Pre-heat the oven to 500 F/260 C at least 45 minutes before baking
When ready to bake, heavily mist the interior of the oven with water and slide in the loaves (as my oven is tiny, I can only bake one half-sheet pan load at a time). Spray twice more at 2 minute- intervals, then bake for 15 minutes (at home, in my “normal” oven, I then lower the temperature to 450 F/232 C). Rotate the bunnies and bake another 8 minutes
Set loaves on a rack to cool and bake the other one(s) the same way.

Besides the boozy kick, these buns are flaky, a little bit like croissants on steroids.

Julie and Julia: the movie

Even though I had been forewarned, I was probably still expecting too much. I had read last year both the books on which the movie is based, My Life in France by Julia Child, which I had found very interesting and quite endearing, and Julie and Julia, by Julie Powell, which I had found, well, less interesting and endearing. Let’s put it that way, I was glad Powell didn’t tackle volume II of Mastering the Art of French Cooking after she went through volume I. So I knew there was going to be an imbalance in the movie but still, I didn’t expect it to be so vivid.
Of course, there is the Meryl Streep factor (she’s extraordinary as Julia Child) and the perfect fit between her and Stanley Tucci, who plays Paul Child. But then, while not in the same league, Amy Adams and Chris Messina, who play the Powells, are fine in their roles. It’s just that Julie Powell’s story is obviously nowhere as compelling as Julia Child’s.
I left the theater hungry for more Julia, more France in the fifties (when I was growing up) and more about the feat of bringing French cooking to “servantless American cooks”.
When Julia said “French people eat French food every day”, I thought of my Mom and the marvelous way she had with Sole Meunière (sole in a butter sauce), the very dish Julia Child enthuses about in Rouen at her first French restaurant, and I would have loved to know more about how she managed to introduce it to American kitchens.
I should add that “sole meunière” didn’t feature weekly, or even monthly at our table when I was growing up. With four kids to feed, there is no way my parents could have plied us with such an expensive fish more often than once in a while for a special occasion but the point is that, when my Mom made it, the only thing we found remarkable about it is that we had sole at all, not that she knew how to cook it.
We had “îles flottantes” (floating islands), boeuf bourguignon, coq-au-vin (chicken cooked in a wine sauce), crêpes (flambées or not), mousse au chocolat, asparagus, civet (rabbit or hare in a red wine sauce served with buckwheat crêpes), pâtés, terrines, pot-au-feu, baba au rhum and everything else on a very regular basis, especially because my grandparents lived in the country, raised their own chickens and rabbits and grew their own fruit and vegetables (and ours) , and because my Dad and his Dad hunted in season. But, to us kids, it was all a given.
We thought nothing of it. Food was food. It was almost always good (I balked at lamb brain and my Mom didn’t offer it again) and we didn’t marvel at it, even though we thoroughly enjoyed it, just as we greatly enjoyed simple dishes, such as sliced ham with a side of pasta topped with grated Swiss cheese or soft boiled eggs with “lichettes” (buttered slivers of crusty baguettes).
Eating as well as possible is (was?) in France a way of life. It was certainly our way as a French family. I wouldn’t say that we lived to eat (although my Dad might have argued the point) but I am quite certain that, for better or for worse, we didn’t eat to live. I know that the Joy of Cooking had already done wonders for American family fare by the time Julia came along but I would have liked it very much if the movie had focused more on what Julia had to do to convince American cooks that French cuisine was do-able and, more to the point, another step they might be happy to take.
Julie Powell’s marathon does nothing to illustrate that process. She cooks and writes and although much is made of the connection she feels with Julia Child, in the end, she cooks to be recognized as a writer. “Is there anyone out there reading me?”, she asks at the beginning of her adventure.
Whereas Julia cooks and beams: “I am French”! And she is. And that’s the difference. At least for this French-born American baker.

Fun Fougasses

Baking with a 4-year old is a lot of fun. You have help scaling and pouring (“Can I pour the yeast over the flour? Can I mix it myself? Why does it have to be mixed? Can I add the water myself? Why do you need to go slow? Why can’t I add the salt now? Why does the dough have to rest? “) and get a watchful sentinel who raises the alarm whenever the dough tends to go off center (“Come quick! The dough is going to the side again. Why does it do that?”) and mans the red and green buttons on the mixer with fierce determination, which means you don’t have to do it yourself with your dough-sticky fingers (“Why don’t you like to touch the button with your sticky fingers?”at which point I gave her the same answer my darling of a grandpa used to give me when he got tired of my questions: “To give little girls a reason to ask why” and she giggled). I must remember that she likes this answer! She also likes it a lot when I counter with a “Why do you have to ask why?”. So that’s two good lines to use when I get too busy to actually think! Especially when she has already asked the question the day before and will do it again the day after. Some times I test her by saying that she already knows the answer and she invariably does. So I guess she’s testing to see whether or not I change my story from one day to the next.
But besides devouring what she calls her “favorite sandwich” everyday for breakfast (a piece of ciabatta with butter, honey and Swiss cheese), my grand-daughter isn’t a die-hard bread eater. So I decided to make fun breads with her and that was a huge hit! I heard her talking excitedly to her parents on the phone that night (they were on a cruise somewhere in the Atlantic) and telling them we had made a yummy house bread and two leaf breads, including “a huge huge” one. I wonder what they made of that…
As strange as it may sound for a French native, it was my first time making fougasse, a bread I hadn’t been especially attracted to in the past, and since my targeted audience probably wouldn’t eat it if it contained olives, anchovies or, God forbid, herbs, I made it plain. But even plain, it had a very aromatic flavor, probably because the olive oil I used (from Trader Joe’s if I remember correctly) was very fragrant, and also, of course, because of the starter-based sponge.
But then, flavorwise, you can never go wrong when you make one of Nancy Silverton’s recipes in Breads from La Brea Bakery, the book where I learned most of what I knew about bread making before taking classes at the San Francisco Baking Institute, and the one I turned to for these first fougasses.
We did make three loaves: a tiny house, a small leaf and a gigantic one but I forgot to take a picture of the big one! Sorry about that… Anyway it looked a lot like the small one, only twice the size and with many more openings.

Please note that this is a two-day bread.
Ingredients (for 2 large loaves, or two small ones and a large one, or 4 small ones):
For the sponge
254 g cool water (70F/21C)
57 g mature white starter
227 g unbleached all-purpose flour
For the final dough
556 g cold water (55F/13C)
5 g instant dry yeast
the whole sponge
1136 g unbleached all-purpose flour
25 g salt
54 g extra-virgin olive oil

Method:

The day before baking, make a sponge by placing water, white starter and flour in a mixing bowl and stirring with a spatula
Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let the dough ferment overnight at room temperature
The day of the baking, place water and yeast in the bowl of a mixer. Uncover the sponge and add it to the yeast mixture, along with the flour
Mix the dough on low speed for 4 minutes
Cover the dough with a proofing cloth and allow it to rest in the bowl about 20 minutes (autolyse)
Add the salt and continue mixing on medium speed for 4 minutes, scraping the dough down the sides of the bowl as necessary with a rubber spatula
Add the olive oil and mix on medium speed until incorporated and desired dough temperature (74-78 F/23-26C) is reached
Remove the dough from the mixing bowl. It should feel soft and resilient. Mix it for a few minutes by hand on a lightly floured work surface
Place in oiled bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap and let ferment at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 3 hours
Preheat the oven to 500F/260C one hour before baking
Uncover the dough and turn it onto a lightly floured surface
Stretch it into a rectangle about 24 by 18 inches (61 x 46 cm) and at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick
Cut the dough in half with a dough cutter into two 12 x 9-inch (30.5 x 23 cm) rectangles
Working with one piece of dough at a time (leaving the second one covered with a cloth), fold in the edges of the longest sides of the dough to meet in the middle and invert the dough, seam side down, onto a floured, parchment-lined baking sheet. Dimple the dough slightly with your fingers to seal the seam underneath. The dough should be 1 to 1.5-inch (2.5 to 4 cm) thick
Cup your hands around the top end of the dough and shape it into a half oval using a pushing motion. With a similar motion, shape the bottom end of the dough, leaving the edges slightly squared.
Uncover the second piece of dough and shape it in the same manner
Cover the loaves with a cloth and let them proof at room temperature for about 1/2 hour
Uncover the first piece of dough and cut/decorate as desired (you can make leaves, trees, buildings, boats, trains, whatever your imagination will suggest) but don’t forget to always enlarge the cuts with your fingertips so that the openings are 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 4 cm) wide (if not, they will close during baking
Lightly sprinkle each fougasse with flour, cover with a cloth, and let the dough relax for about 45 minutes
Open the oven door, spritz the oven heavily with water from a spray bottle and quickly close the door. Open it again and slide one baking sheet in, spritz some more
Reduce oven temp to 450 F/232 C, spritz 2 more times during the next 5 minutes, then refrain from opening the oven door for the next 15 minutes
After 15 minutes, check the loaf and rotate it if necessary to ensure even baking. Continue baking until the crust is an even brown color from top to bottom (10 more minutes in my case)
Repeat with the second loaf
Let cool on a wire rack before eating.

The Fun Fougasses go to Susan, fromWild Yeast, for Yeastpotting.

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Hamburger Buns

I was looking for a hamburger bun recipe yielding a roll that would work fine with or without a hamburger inside and I stumbled upon this one by chance. I had started out by following Nancy Silverton’s directions in her terrific Breads from La Brea Bakery but I hadn’t read the complete recipe (always a big mistake!) and found out too late that Silverton uses in fact a brioche dough with 5 large eggs, close to 300 g of butter and 85 g of sugar.
While I am sure her recipe is delicious, for health and other reasons, I don’t really like baking with a lot of butter and eggs. So here I was with a beautifully bubbling sponge and nowhere to go!
I turned to my other bread bible, namely Jeffrey Hamelman’s Bread : A Baker’s Book of Techniques and Recipes – which I had had the lucky foresight to take with me on our trip to the river – and looked up Hamelman’s recipe for hamburger buns. It did use sugar, some butter and eggs but the sugar could be skipped and the butter replaced by olive oil. As for eggs, it only required one and since there was fresh milk in the sponge, I could skip the powdered milk (a good thing since I didn’t have any).
I scaled the ingredients taking into account the amount of flour, water, milk, starter and yeast which I had used in the sponge and we were in business.
The resulting rolls are a little bit more crusty than simply yeasted buns but they are quite tasty.
The crumb is mostly tight enough to keep ketchup or mustard from leaking through, yet airy enough to make a nice dinner roll. In other words, this stumbled-upon recipe is a keeper, especially as the rolls can be made ahead and frozen, which means I can make them whenever I have a surplus of starter (I am always looking for ways to use up my starter).

The recipe is made over two days as the sponge ferments for about 24 hours beforehand and I found the final dough to be pretty resilient. As we had to go out, I set it to wait in the fridge and even though we were away for more than three hours, it hadn’t overproofed when I took it out.

Ingredients (for 18 rolls):
For the sponge

171 g cool water at 70 F
1 pinch of dry instant yeast
184 g mature liquid starter
115 g fresh milk
282 g unbleached all-purpose flour

For the final dough

373 g unbleached all-purpose flour
118 g water
40 g extra-virgin olive oil
13 g salt
1 egg
4 g instant dry yeast

Method:

To make the sponge, place the water, yeast, starter, milk and flour in a bowl and stir with a rubber spatula. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and leave it at room temperature for 10 to 12 hours
Bubbles should have formed on the surface. Resecure the plastic wrap and place the bowl in the refrigerator for 1o to 12 hours
24 hours later, remove the sponge from the refrigerator and place it in the bowl of a mixer (I use a spiral one), together with the water, the flour and the yeast
Mix on low speed until just incorporated and let rest, covered, for 20 minutes (autolyse)
Add the salt and mix for a few minutes until the gluten network is moderately developed, then add the egg
When incorporated, slowly add the olive oil
Remove from the bowl of the mixer and place in an oil-sprayed container. Cover tightly before setting to ferment at room temperature (the dough will take longer to ferment than indicated in the Hamelman’s book because the sponge is taken straight from the fridge. In my case, the dough temperature was 72 F/22 C at the end of the mixing, which is clearly on the lower side since the desired temperature would have been 76 F/24 C. It took about 2 hours but right before it was done, I placed it in the fridge for more than 3 hours, so all together, it fermented for at least 5 hours. I wouldn’t particularly recommend this technique of retarding the dough out of personal convenience but it is good to know that it can be done)
Divide the dough in 70 g pieces, pre-shape round
Let the rounds relax for about 5 minutes under a sheet of plastic
Lightly flour the work surface and with a rolling pin (I actually used the flat of my hand), roll each piece into a disk about 3.5 inches/9 cm in diameter
Proof on sheet pans lined with parchment paper and cover with plastic
When risen, lightly spray the top with water and drizzle with sesame seeds, poppy seeds or grated parmesan cheese (I left one batch bare as my 4-year old grand-daughter can be picky when toppings are concerned) and bake at 400 F/204 C for 20 minutes. The crust should be golden but the rolls should be soft when gently squeezed, according to Hamelman (mine had a little bit more body because of the starter).

These Hamburger Buns go to Susan, from Wild Yeast, for Yeastpotting.

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